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The most distinctive feature of this costume is its mask: its large circular
ear flaps and narrow central panel create an iconic representation of an
elephant. For the Bamileke, the elephant is a royal symbol. Its
unparalleled strength and dignity provide a natural metaphor for power.
The Bamileke, who today number approximately 700,000, live in the
Western Grasslands of Cameroon. Like many cultural groups of West
Africa, theirs is a society governed by royalty. Many objects identified as
"art" from a Western perspective are actually designed to affirm royal
power. This ensemble -- mask, headdress, tunic and fly whisk -- would
have functioned in just such a way.
The mask and costume are exclusively owned and used by the
Kuosi society, whose secret membership
includes many of a community's most wealthy and high ranking men. Worn
only at special ceremonies, such as a society member's funeral or a
biennial public celebration, this visually impressive ensemble not only
affirms the king's authority, but also reminds him of the watchful presence
of the Kuosi, formerly a warrior society.
The Kuosi society's power is suggested by
the symbolism of the elephant -- whose powerful persona the wearer would
assume during ceremonial use. Likewise, the high social status of its members
is represented by the lavish use of imported beads, once a rare and expensive
material in Africa.
Eileen Carr
SUGGESTED READING:
Suzanne Prestion Blier. The Royal Arts of Africa: The Majesty of
Form. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1998.